Course Description
An introduction to the history, tools, and techniques of creating patterns for costumes and clothing. Class time will be devoted to both demonstration and practical exercises in flat pattern technique, draping, sizing, and creation of sloper patterns for the individual body. Students must have basic hand sewing and machine sewing skills before taking this course.
Additional Requirements for Graduate Students:
Graduate students:
1) will conduct historical research into the design and
construction of period articles of clothing. An example:
pants/shirt or other costume piece
2) final project to include historical research into the
draping and patterning and construction of a period dress with
bodice
3) final exam (not required for undergraduates)
4) will be expected to perform at a higher level of competence
than undergraduates on other coursework
Athena Title
Cutting and Draping Patterns
Semester Course Offered
Offered every year.
Grading System
A - F (Traditional)
Course Objectives
To introduce the student to the tools, materials, and practices of the patterning of costumes. In-depth analysis shape and form as it relates to the body, exploration of drafting skills and specific cutting techniques/practices of the individual pieces that make up a costume. Specific objectives include: 1. Gain an appreciation and understanding of the traditional aspects of pattern-making and historical production processes. 2. Become familiar with the use of tools and equipment of the Cutter/Draper. 3. Develop a further understanding of shape, size and precision in practices relating to cutting and technical drawing. 4. Develop skills in communicating with designers and translating the designer’s sketch into individual garment through flat pattern drafting or draping. 5. Develop skills in transferring images from the technical attempts to create a garment through fitting and alterations to a final costume to be used in production. 6. To become sensitive to individual garment fitting challenges. 7. To develop successful skills in cutting and shaping both fitted and free-form garments.
Topical Outline
1. The Dress Form (body) and measurements Shapes on and of the body 2. Elements of Fabric and proper use of tools for patterning Shape in fabrics 3. History of production/dressmaker/tailor practices The first fitting Needs of the personal body Needs of the designer and theatrical production 4. Basic bodice and introduction to half-scale 5. Cutting, Notching, guidelines for grading (sizing) up 6. Sleeves 7. Skirts and dart-less shapes 8. Pants 9. Collars, Yokes, dresses 10. Decorative pieces, Ruffles, Peplums 11. Translation of the sketch to the work table through finished garment The second fitting and alterations Schedule: Week 1: Introduction, tour of Costume Shop, discussion of text and tools, job of the cutter/draper, shop hierarchy Week 2: Taking measurements, Equipment, Fabric, Fitting etiquette Week 3: Pattern making and reproduction, labeling, drafting and draping Practices, Problems of period shapes Week 4: Bodice and Grading Up, Sleeves Week 5: Skirts, dart-less shapes Week 6: Studio Work, Pants Week 7: (midterm exam), Introduction to Renderings, sketches and Design, Language Week 8: Studio Work Week 9: Dress parts and joining pieces Week 10: Dress parts and joining pieces Week 11: Projects discussed and assigned, period pieces, fittings Week 12: Patterning Decorative pieces, Studio Work Week 13: Presentations of translation project (grads), fitting problems Week 14: Studio Work Week 15: Final Projects Due and Final Critiques of Projects